With 370,000 acres planted of Grenache, it’s the 5th most widely planted red grape in the world.
But, before I explain what Grenache tastes like, I want to dive into a little more history about why it might be the most influential grape in the world. It’s rarely a stand alone varietal and where and how it is blended is particularly important to the flavor profile.
More people should be picking up a bottle of anything with Grenache in it to truly understand it.
Let me begin with Chateauneuf-Du-Pape. In 1305, Pope Clement V travelled to Southern France and began the Avignon Papalcy. In 1317, Pope John XXII, had travelled to both Spain and Rome and decided to build the Chateauneuf-Du-Pape in the Rhone region of France. He brought with him the Grenache cuttings and planted Grenache at the New Castle of the Pope. Love him or hate him, it was he that travelled throughout France, making France a Catholic nation. As he did this, he brought with him his wine, Chateauneuf-Du-Pape. What did the people start drinking because of him? The began drinking Grenache, calling it The Pope’s Wine. However, plantings of other grapes were already growing throughout Southern France and thus, Grenache became a blending grape. It’s the only grape that is legally allowed to have the Papal keys, crest and crown that became a selling point of the wine.
The soils of Chateauneuf are different than soils in other areas. They have large pudding stones made of granite, creating well-drained soils that produce denser grape flavor. A unique method for aging Chateauneuf-Du-Pape sets it apart from other Rhones. It is aged in massive cement casks, adding a stoney note to the wine. While Grenache is the primary grape, it is often blended with Syrah and Mourvedreh (GSM blends) that are also commonly found in Central Coast, CA. Chateauneuf may also have Cinsault, Counoise, Muscardin, Terret Noir and Vaccarese grapes. The body of Chateauneuf is heavier than other Rhone blends. It tends to have flavors of plums, raspberry jam, figs and cloves. It tends to be high in alcohol, medium- tannins and medium- acidity. The quality is under strict control as the wine has retained its value for 700 years.
Viticulture of Southern France began in the 4th Century, B.C.E. with the Greeks. The Romans (much like they did with architecture) perfected training systems to optimize the quality of the wine. The Southern Rhone region has tiers, each tier is a bit different in requirements and resulting flavor profiles.
- Cotes du Rhone, AOC (Appellation d’ Origine Controllee) is the lowest tier and accounts for 50% of all of the regions wine production). The standards are simply that the wine must not deviate from the 13 approved grapes, with Grenache being 50% of the blend. These wines are made to be your chicken dinner Tuesday night wine. They aren’t special. They are easy drinking with a minimal amount of oak aging. The cold Mistral winds cool the grapes from the warm Mediterranean climate. With notes of raspberry and plums, these wines pair with lighter meals. In Central Coast, CA, you can find comparable wines anywhere and commonly in the Santa Ynez region.
- Cotes Du Rhone Villages AOC is the next tier. The grape yield must be cut back with a minimum blend of 50% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and not more than 20% of the other approved grapes. The soils are more pebbly with clay, allowing for more water retention. The South facing slopes allow for more heat (more sugar is created in the grapes which translates to higher alcohol and body). These are aged in oak and benefit from some cellaring.
- Cotes Du Rhone Villages (with a name of a village) AOC. There are 21 Villages that are allowed to put their name on the bottle that differentiates in some way that is more special than without their name designation. It’s like saying a wine is not only from Southern California but it’s from Santa Barbara County and specifically Sta Rita Hills, within the county. I don’t know much about the different villages and what sets each apart in the Rhone Valley. But I can tell you that in Ste Rita Hills, CA they get a cold wind through the valley, (that would otherwise be quite warm in the summer increasing the acidity) making it my favorite place for Pinot Noir. Soils of Santa Ynez, on the other hand, have moderate drainage from alluvial soils of sandstone, shale and granite. This adds to the minerality of the wine with more body. I imagine each village in Rhone that is allowed to have it’s own AOC, is kin to the difference between Ste Rita Hills and Santa Ynez Valley. They are very different and yet both within the same county. I also imagine that the different village will have their own house style. For example, Santa Ynez Valley tends to have more Syrah base. Some villages will have varying soils making different grapes more optimal for their village style blend. Once you know what makes each village special and find what you like about that wine, it’s easier to know what your personal favorite is.
- Crus, there are 9 Crus is Southern Rhone that are given the privilege of being called AOP (Appellation d’ Origine Protegee). Chateauneuf du-Pape is one of them. Another is Crozes-Hermitage AOP (Syrah based). We’ll spend a week talking about Syrah another time. The AOP means it has the highest quality and a connection to the terroir must be proven. After phylloxera, wine quality was on the decline as viticulturalists had to replant their vineyards and vinification methods were more relaxed. This meant that wines were produced with higher yields with less quality and less time in barrels. Thus, some places that had to remain altruistic to the wine style that their families and history dictated, had to have something on the bottle to state that the wine had quality control. Many of these high-quality wines aren’t ready to drink for 5 years after harvest. But, I have to tell you, the decadence is worth the wait. They are smooth and silky going down. The fruit tones are more subtle replaced by hazelnut and marzipan notes. These are the types of wine you would have when company comes over and you want to impress. You can taste and smell a dozen different flavors and aromas from dark plums and chocolate to allspice and cloves.
In Spain, Grenache is very different. In the Rhone region of France, Grenache is often trellis trained. In Chateauneuf du-Pape, the vines are trained low to the ground to pick up heat reflected from the pudding stones. In Spain, in the continental climate, it’s considerably hotter and head-trained like little trees. To prevent the Grenache from becoming flabby (high alcohol without structure), it is blended with Tempranillo to give it more spice, acidity and tannin.
What does Grenache taste like in SoCal? Well, it really depends upon its dancing partner, but typically it’s heavier than Pinot Noir. It’s a little higher in alcohol, lower in acidity, subtle tannins and easy drinking. The soils at the land that I want for my Copper Grapes project are a cross between Chateauneuf and Rioja of Spain. It has a lot of alluvial soil. At some point there was a volcano in the area and now pebbles of volcanic rock are everywhere, retaining heat. But the layers underneath have so much clay that they retain moisture and acidity. It really is the perfect place for Grenache to call home. I have tasted my own Grenache as well as a stand-alone from the area from small producers who aren’t commercial. If a wine is not produced in a licensed winery in the U.S., it cannot be sold in stores. The winemaker may only be allowed to produce 600 gallons for personal consumption. I have tasted it as a single varietal from Paso and Lodi. It doesn’t typically have longevity unless new oak is added (adding tannin and structure to the wine). Without new oak, it must be consumed within a few short years. With the new oak, you can drink it for about 10 years. My preference is 40% new oak in hybrid barrels for 18 months. But then it means it’s not drinkable until it’s about 3 years old. That doesn’t work for the investors ROI timetable. When I have my land, I’ll have to make 2 batches. One to keep and one to drink. Two very different tiers with different price points and styles. The lighter one would have to be blended to give it body and lower priced for quicker ROI.
The heavier one could be a stand-alone. But this is how an appellation is defined, which is a necessity for the long term success of Copper Grapes. Unique terroir, unique climate, specific grapes that are ideally suited for a special place creating an exceptional wine that defines a place that is inimitable elsewhere. That is how art is made and why it should be available to any viewer or consumer to behold. For American laws to prevent this, is unfair prejudice. When you taste this wine, you are completely besotted. For a law to deny you to taste something that is a rare jewel to behold, means you will never get to know what it’s like to fall in love with a wine that did everything in its power to survive in the vineyard.
Of course, Grenache is also commonly found in rosé blends. The Provence region of France is known for their Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah rosé blends. With aromas of roses and flavors of strawberry, watermelon, and honeydew melon with minerality and bright acidity, these wines are perfect for pairing pool side. We’ll spend a lot more time talking about rosé when the weather is warmer.
One last note, before I take my leave (and shower since I haven’t showered since yesterday and I’ve just been sitting here typing in my pajamas with two faithful dogs warming my feet)…
You need to know what to pair it with.
(As I said, it’s special, for when company comes over)
Pair with a mild, young goat cheese such as Chevre. It has a mild delicate taste that gets stronger as it ages. It also has lower lactose content than cheese from milk.
Roasted Cornish Game Hens
Preheat oven to 450 degrees
(about 1-1.5 pounds each – smaller is better so each guest gets their own hen)
Mix 1 Yucatan Potato chopped with 1 carrot per hen,
And a blend of chopped celery, leeks, onions, fresh parsley with lemon or orange zest, fresh ground pepper, salt, olive oil, a splash of orange juice and fresh oregano, thyme and rosemary sprigs. If you are drinking a Grenache with Tempranillo, you need to add a spice that pairs with it such as Paprika. I usually add one vegetable bouillon cube crushed in the dish. Slices of oranges on top while roasting will help keep moisture in the bird. Cover with foil for half of the cooking time (varies depending upon size) and uncover for the rest. Roast until the inside of the hens are about 165 degrees F.
“I dream of a better tomorrow where chickens can cross the road and not be questioned about their motives.” Ralph Waldo Emerson
